12 places to visit on the Vis island, Croatia

Island of Vis, Jewel of the Adriatic

Vis (ϕ 43°02' N, λ 16°09' E) is an island in the Adriatic Sea; of all the inhabited Croatian islands, it is the furthest from the coast. In addition to its unspoiled beauty, Vis has the allure of the forbidden. Used as a military base for the former Yugoslav army, it was off limits to the public until 1989.

Vis is now rapidly developing into a discreet but upmarket destination, thanks to its wild, rugged landscapes and the insight it offers into the way people once lived throughout Dalmatia. The two main settlements, Vis town and Komiža, both lie on the coast, while there are also about a dozen semi-abandoned inland villages.

1. Komiža

Komiža is located on the western coast at the foot of Hum mountain; Komiža is a captivating small town on a bay, with sand and pebble beaches on the eastern end. Narrow back lined with tawny houses twist uphill from the port. In the 13th century, the Benedictines founded the monastery of St. Nicholas, so-called Muster on an elevation above the settlement amid terraces of vines and olives. Each year on St. Nicohlas day, 6 December, the ceremonial burning of a fishing boat takes place in front of the church. The citadel (Komuna) in the port was built in 1585. Komiža is also well known for its close proximity to the island of Biševo.

2. Blue Cave (Biševo island)

Biševo is a tiny piece of land about 5km southwest of Vis (ϕ 42°59’ N, λ 16°01’ E); the permanent population is about 14 (as of 2004). Its name is derived from the local word for the worm-holes found in wood because of the numerous above and under water caves. This is the site of the Blue Grotto (Modra spilja), a spectacular sea cave. Between 11am and noon the sun's rays pass through an underwater opening to bathe the interior in an unearthly blue light. Beneath the crystal-blue water, rocks glimmer in silver to a depth of 6m. The entrance to the cave is only 1.5 meters high and 2.5 meters wide.

3. Porat Bay (Biševo island)

If you are after the rare bit of European sand that is without umbrellas, though, head for Porat Beach (Uvala Porat), in a sandy cove tucked among limestone cliffs on the west side of the island. You'll find a beach bar, a restaurant where you would be remiss not to try the fish. Small boats ferry visitors at 0800 from the Komiža harbor and return at 1700. The other way to get there is to rent a boat in Komiža, on Vis, and set your own timetable.

4. Salbunara Bay (Biševo island)

Salbunara is a deep, sandy bay harboring a few small stone houses. Salbunara is a 15 minute walk from Porat and is much more quieter. This picturesque village has no bars or taverns, so bring plenty of water and food with you.

5. Kamenice Beach

At the eastern part of Komiza there is a small bay with nice pebble beach named Kamenice. It's sheltered by trees which gives you the opportunity to hide from the strong sun. The beach has fresh water springs so it's really easy to quench your thirst.There is also a bar, Club Aquarius, offering cold and hot drinks, food, beach chairs and umbrellas and besides, they play quite good music.

6. Vis Town

On the northeastern coast of the Vis island, at the foot of a wide, horseshoe-shaped bay, lies the ancient town of Vis, the first settlement on the island. The ancient Greeks founded Issa, their first colony in Dalmatia, in 389 BC. Unfortunately there's not much left of it today, but excavations have unearthed finds now on display in the archaeological museums in both Split and Vis itself. The town is on the southern slope of Gradina hill and is a merger of two settlements: Luka on the northwestern part of the bay and Kut in the southeast. The ferry ties up at Luka and a seaside promenade connects the two neighborhoods. Most beaches are along this path while the ancient ruins and another beach are a short walk north along the coast. Through summer, yachts moor up along the seafront, their crews drawn by Vis's authentic fish restaurants and fine wines.

7. Stiniva Bay

Situated on the southern side of the island, it is one of the most extraordinary and stunning bays. Stiniva is characterized by a narrow entrance and a 30 meters long pebble beach and crystal clear water. The beach is enclosed by the 35 meters high, almost vertical rocks. There are no roads that lead to the bay - a reason why it managed to preserve its natural beauty. The beach is accessible by boat or 30 minute hike via a marked trail.

8. Stončica Bay

One of the most beautiful beaches on the Vis can be found in Stončica bay, repeatedly refereed as Hawaii of the Vis, situated 6km from Vis town on the northeastern coast of the island. It is probably the most popular beach among young people. There you can find a nice kiosk with ice creams and refreshments, a cosy restaurant and a beach volley playground. The beach can be crowded in full season. The family that runs tavern makes its own wine, olive oil, fruit and vegetables, all used in the preparation of food. This is a perfect place for anyone seeking peace and quiet, a vacation away from civilization with no phones and running water.

9. Milna Beach

The bay of Milna is to be found on the south of island of Vis. It is only about 10 km faraway from the city of Vis and it is linked with the city by recently renewed road. Milna cove has got mainly sandy beaches. You will need just about 10 min on foot to reach the most striking sandy beach of all on the whole island of Vis – Zaglav beach. Beaches in Milna bay are appropriate for every one who picture their holidays far from crowds and noisy beaches. This cove is also frequently visited by yachts.

10. Srebrna Beach

In the village of Rukavac, near the city of Milna, you can find Srebrena beach or the Silver beach. Srebrena is above all stunning white pebbled beach. In the inner part of the bay there is the part of Srebrena covered with pebbles. This part is typically more crowded, while the rocky part is just few meters away and is much more peaceful. Rukavac bay includes also two little islands with the well-known Green Grotto (cave). They can be seen as a part of excursion organised by tourist agencies.

11. Zaglav Beach

Zaglav, the largest sandy beach, is situated to the south of Vis island. You can't drive all the way to Zaglav. You have to leave your car in Milna and then walk for about 10 minutes along the coastline path. The place is convenient for those who look for peace and isolation.

12. Mount Hum

Rearing up above Komiža to the southeast is Mount Hum, Vis's highest point. The adventurous visitor can leave behind the island's pristine stone beaches, sun-drenched waterside cafes, restaurants, and boutiques, and ascend the nearly 600m Mount Hum to visit the complex of caverns that briefly headquartered Marshal Tito's partisans as they fought the Axis during World War II. You can scramble up to the top by following the tracks from behind the Benedictine monastery, although there's also a road of sorts, accessed by following the old Komiza–Vis Town route, which works its way round the southern side of the island. About 6km out of Komiža, take a left to the hamlet of Zena Glava followed by a second left to Borovik, from where a deteriorating asphalt road heads uphill to the summit. There's a small chapel at the top, and a panorama of the Adriatic that reveals just why Vis was so strategically important: you can pick out the pale gray stripe of the Italian coastline far away to the west, and the mountains of the Croatian mainland to the east.

I hope you'll find this information useful, but if you have any other questions or require further information, I'll be pleased to supply it.

Learn more about Croatia

Lonely Planet Croatia (Country Guide), The Rough Guide to Croatia 4 (Rough Guide Travel Guides), Frommer's Croatia (Frommer's Complete), Croatia, 4th: Tread Your Own Path (Footprint - Travel Guides)

Komentari: